Rondo Restaurant Review | Eat & Drink
The ground floor of The Hoxton, Holborn has been given a facelift with the modern Rondo bistro which takes place in the restaurant space. It was created in conjunction with Quality Chop House, Portland and Clipstone co-owner William Lander, with ex-St John and EartH Kitchen chef Chris Gillard at the helm of the kitchen. Chris has led a similar style of cooking here, with a menu of seasonal, uncluttered British dishes – it’s the kind of food that reads like simple but takes a lot of skill to succeed.
All meals at Rondo should start with the cheese straws (we used excellent restraint in keeping it to one order), but to start off well we had two salads, both in substantial portions; the earthy roasted cauliflower with chicory and sunflower and the Cornish crab with cucumber and fennel saur, which was delicious and fresh.
Then there was the venison shank with red cabbage and rutabaga puree, which had exactly the sweet, sour, and salty balance you’d want, and the Sutton Hoo roast chicken with creamed corn and Jerusalem artichoke. – if you think chicken is a boring dish to order in a restaurant, this one will change your mind.
A dessert in between was all we had room after that. We tried to keep it light with the peaches, raspberries and mango sorbet, but since it was sold out we were pretty much forced to go for the chocolate mousse cake with pistachio ice cream. It was a nice piece of cake, not the delicate, airy slice we expected, but it was still moriesh.
Rondo is as much about wine as it is food, as evidenced by an impressive wall of wine at the back of the space. Will has championed the creative wineries on the list and it’s really easy to navigate thanks to his categorizations of Summer Juice (light wines to drink in the sun), Continental Wine Bar (some of Will’s favorites in Europe) and Food-Friendly (for match the punchy flavors of the food). We had a Dado E Tratto Rosso from Summer Juice which was described as ‘user friendly but not too heavy’ and it was perfect. There are also special bottles on the reserve list if you are looking to push the boat.
With Seabird in Southwark and now Rondo in Holborn, The Hoxton is really taking their in-house restaurants up a notch, and now with their early bird deals in both, you can treat yourself to dinner and stay overnight for free.
199-206 High Holborn, London WC1V 7BD